El Potrero Chico: Tips for a Climbing Adventure in Mexico
El Potrero Chico (EPC) is a stunning limestone climbing destination in the northern part of Mexico, about an hour from the large city of Monterrey. EPC is known largely as a sport climbing destination with one of the highest concentrations of multi-pitch sport climbs in the world. The style of climbing can vary depending on the crag, but most of the climbing is vertical or near-vertical with thin holds and sometimes delicate movement with sharp limestone.
The Climbing
One of the coolest things about El Potrero Chico is the accessibility. There is basically no approach to any crag that is longer than 15 minutes, and the canyon itself is a 5-minute walk down the road from La Posada, the hostel I was staying at. I was trying to walk the line between climbing hard and enjoying all the classic, long multi-pitch routes. I would say I spent 5 days of the trip climbing long moderate multi-pitch routes and 3 days climbing classic 5.12 single pitch routes. I definitely was not going down there to waste time projecting a hard route.
The majority of the classic long routes are within the grades 5.10a-5.10d. The longest and most adventurous route I climbed was Yankee Clipper, 15 pitches with an overall grade of 5.12a. But the majority of the climbing was 5.9-5.10, with only the optional last pitch being 5.12a. Because it was in the 90s during the week, we chose to start climbing Yankee Clipper in the very early morning as the route sits directly in the sun. Therefore we climbed the first 7 pitches in the dark to avoid the heat. I would recommend this route for anyone who can confidently climb 5.10c and wants a long multi-pitch adventure. The climbing is extremely grippy limestone with many pockets and cracks. It was pretty awesome to be utilizing lots of hand and foot jamming while clipping bolts.
Top 5 Route Recommendations:
Pitch Black: 5.10+, 6 pitches
Yankee Clipper: 5.12a, 15 pitches
Off The Couch: 5.10d, 7 pitches
Salty Dog 5.12a, 1 pitch
Treasure of The Sierra Madre: 5.10c, 7 pitches
The Social Life
Like I mentioned above, it is extremely easy to make friends in El Potrero Chico with climbers migrating here in the winter from all over the US and world. Most of the climbers end their days by sitting at the picnic tables in front of La Posada, drinking beer and eating tacos. It is here where I met plenty of people to hangout and climb with. Coming here during the Holidays is also a great time. On New Years Eve, I started my night at a restaurant called Leo's where they had a special New Years Eve meal along with a Jukebox and Mechanical Bull. The night ended with a rave that had a full DJ setup, blaring EDM music with climbers dancing well into the early morning hours of 2022. I can honestly say I made lifelong friends in El Potrero Chico. A good way to meet people and find climbing partners before your trip is through the Facebook group Potrero Chico Rock Climbing.
Accommodations and Food
There are many places to stay and eat within a 15-minute walk to the climbing. The nearest grocery store, however, is in the town of Hidalgo which is a 40-minute walk to the climbing. I recommend planning ahead and picking up groceries on your way in from the airport.
Checo's Restaurant: This is a short walk from the climbing and is a great place to get tacos, burritos, and guacamole. They also have some of the best flan in the area.
Leo's: This restaurant is a bit further from the climbing, but it's worth the walk for their enchiladas and tacos. They also have a great selection of beers on tap.
Gear
Gear Recommendations
Here is a list of essential gear that you will need for a climbing trip to El Potrero Chico:
Climbing rope: A 70-meter rope is the standard length for multi-pitch climbing in El Potrero Chico. You may not need a double rope rappel, but it is always a good idea to have one on hand.
Helmet: A helmet is a must-have for any climbing trip, as there is a risk of rockfall in El Potrero Chico.
Harness: A harness is used to secure you to the rope.
Shoes: Climbing shoes with good edging ability are essential for the sharp limestone in El Potrero Chico.
Chalk: Chalk helps to keep your hands dry and prevent them from slipping.
Quickdraws: Quickdraws are used to clip the rope into the bolts on the route.
Belay device: A belay device is used to control the rope while your partner is climbing.
Locking carabiners: Locking carabiners are used to secure the rope to your harness and belay device.
Multi-pitch bag: A multi-pitch bag is a backpack that is specifically designed for carrying gear on multi-pitch climbs.
Clothing: You will need to pack clothing that is appropriate for the weather in El Potrero Chico. This includes warm layers for the evenings and sunscreen for the days.
First aid kit: A first aid kit is always a good idea to have on hand, especially when you are in a remote location.
Other gear recommendations:
Headlamp: A headlamp is essential for climbing in the dark, which is often necessary in El Potrero Chico due to the hot weather.
Quad anchor: A quad anchor is a safe and efficient way to anchor yourself at the top of a multi-pitch climb.
Locking carabiners: You can never have too many locking carabiners. They are essential for safety and efficiency.
Small multi-pitch bag: A small multi-pitch bag is a great way to carry your gear on multi-pitch climbs. It should be big enough to fit your shoes, water, and snacks, but not so big that it's cumbersome.
Clothing: Be sure to pack warm layers for the evenings and sunscreen for the days. The weather in El Potrero Chico can be unpredictable, so it's important to be prepared for anything.
First aid kit: A first aid kit is always a good idea to have on hand, especially when you are in a remote location.
Getting There
The nearest airport to El Potrero Chico is in Monterey. There are a few different ways to get from the airport to El Potrero Chico:
Shuttle: Both La Posada and Rancho El Sendero offer shuttle services from the airport to their locations.
Taxi: There are also taxi kiosks in the airport that are fairly priced and safe.
Uber: Uber is not officially allowed in Monterey, but there are still a few drivers who operate in the area.
Local Drivers: Join the Facebook Group: Potrero Chico Rock Climbing to find reputable local drivers who can provide you with transportation.